We just got back from 10 days in Morocco and between the blog posts full of dreamy dune photos and "hidden gem" riads, there is a lot that nobody actually warns you about. So here it is — the honest version.
a strong wide shot to set the tone
1. Book your airport transfer in advance, especially if you arrive at night
Riads inside the medina are often completely inaccessible by car. The alleys are too narrow, and your GPS will absolutely lie to you. A pre-booked transfer through your hotel means someone who knows where they're going meets you at arrivals. We landed at 2am and it was one of the best decisions we made.
Our first riad was down an alley no car could reach — without the pre-arranged transfer that would have been a disaster. The hotel transfer cost us €30. A taxi from the airport without pre-booking was 150 dirham (roughly €13), so it's not wildly expensive either way — but at night, tired, with luggage? Just book it.
2. You do need cash — but not for everything
The souks and markets are cash only. Full stop. But hotels, nicer restaurants, and bigger shops all take card. Take out a reasonable amount when you arrive and keep it on you for market browsing. Don't rely on being able to find an ATM mid-souk when you've just fallen in love with a handwoven rug.
3. Riads can be very affordable — but book early if you're going over a holiday
We went over Easter and booked last minute, which meant prices reflected exactly that. We paid around €100 per night. Had we booked earlier, the same quality riads were going for around €50. The accommodation in Morocco is genuinely lovely — courtyard pools, tiled floors, rooftop terraces — and at the right price it's one of the best value stays in the world. Just don't leave it to the last week if you're going during peak season.
4. Renting a car is totally doable — and you don't need an international license (from Germany)
Driving yourself in Morocco is genuinely easy and gives you so much flexibility, especially for getting to Essaouira. The roads are fine, the routes are straightforward, and the landscapes you drive through are stunning. The one non-negotiable: respect the speed limits. There are police checkpoints everywhere, and they will stop you. Drive sensibly, keep your documents with you, and you'll be completely fine.
On cost: the big rental companies like Sixt were quoting us €250 for 3 days including insurance. We went with a smaller local company called Alma Car Rentals and paid €75 for the same period. Everything was completely fine — no issues, no hidden charges. Worth looking beyond the big names.
5. The Sahara desert group tour is a long journey — mentally prepare for the drive
The desert is absolutely worth it. It is a genuine once-in-a-lifetime experience and I would do it again. But let me be honest about what the tour actually involves, because the Instagram version glosses over this entirely.
We booked our tour through Airbnb (which we'd recommend because you can message the operator directly before booking to ask questions — like whether they can drop you at the airport on the last day instead of driving you back). There are cheaper options on other booking platforms — GetYourGuide and Viator are worth comparing — but we wanted to be able to chat with the operator first to confirm flexibility on the route.
Day one is almost entirely driving, with a brief lookout stop over the Atlas Mountains, a 20-minute coffee break, and a 2-hour lunch stop. Day two has genuinely beautiful, unexpected stops — but it's still a lot of time in a vehicle. You don't actually arrive at the Sahara dunes until around 4pm on day two. That gives you enough time for a camel ride at sunset, an overnight in the desert camp, and then you're back in the car by 9 or 10am the next morning.
If you want to maximise your actual time in the desert, an alternative worth considering: fly into Errachidia airport (the closest one to Merzouga) and rent a car for the two-hour drive to the dunes. You skip the long road journey and arrive with more time. The stops along the way are beautiful — but they're also very touristy, and you can feel a bit like a sardine being shuffled between photo spots.
6. Aït Benhaddou is impressive — but it's a lot of driving for a tourist trap
One of the stops on the Sahara tour is Aït Benhaddou, a UNESCO World Heritage ksar (fortified village) that you'll recognise if you've ever watched Game of Thrones, Gladiator, or about a dozen other productions. It is genuinely interesting. The architecture is striking and the setting is dramatic.
But: it is extremely touristy, the site is packed, and when I say it takes around 13 hours of driving to get to the Sahara via this route — Aït Benhaddou is part of why. If you're a huge film location fan, great. If you're primarily there for the desert, just know it may feel like a long detour for something that's more crowded than magical.
7. Watch out for the scarf upsell on tour
At one of the stops, our guide told us we absolutely needed to buy a traditional scarf to protect our eyes from the sand in the desert. He broke it down helpfully: the cheap ones (2 euros) aren't long enough to cover your mouth, the mid-range ones are slightly better but still only 2 metres, and the good cotton ones that will actually protect you are €14 each.
Nobody forced us to buy them. But they are very, very good salesmen and it definitely felt pushed. The information isn't wrong — you do want something to cover your face in the Sahara — but our advice is: buy your scarf before the tour, elsewhere in the souks, for a fraction of the price. You'll have more choice, no pressure, and you won't spend €14 on fabric you'll use for 25 minutes on a camel.
Budget at least an extra €30 per person over the course of the tour for things like this that quietly add up, even when the tour listing says "everything included except lunch."
8. The camel ride is worth it — but your body will not forgive you for at least two days
Twenty-five minutes on a camel and you will feel it in your hips, your lower back, and muscles you didn't know existed. It's a bumpy, swaying, completely unique experience and absolutely do it. Just don't make any plans that require you to walk normally the next day.
9. Haggling in the souks is expected — but don't stress if you're not great at it
Prices in the souks are not fixed. The first number you hear is not the real number. A rough rule of thumb: start at around a third of the asking price and meet somewhere in the middle. That said, if you're like us and haggling doesn't come naturally, don't let it stop you from buying things you love. The prices are still very reasonable by European standards even if you don't get the absolute best deal.
The leather babouche slippers, handwoven rugs, and brassware are genuinely beautiful — and they make for far better souvenirs than anything from an airport shop.
10. Alcohol exists but it will cost you
Morocco is a Muslim-majority country, so alcohol isn't everywhere — but it's available, particularly in tourist areas and hotels. Rooftop bars are the move: great views, good cocktails, nice atmosphere. Budget around 160 dirham (roughly €15) per drink. Embrace it as a treat rather than a budget line item.
11. The food is delicious — for about three days
Moroccan food is genuinely good. The flavours are warm and complex, the portions are generous, tagine and couscous are wonderful. But almost every traditional restaurant serves the same core menu, and if you're there for 10 days, the repetition sets in fast. When you hit that wall, look for pastilla (a flaky sweet-savoury pie that sounds strange and tastes incredible) or just follow your nose to wherever locals are eating rather than wherever the menu is in four languages.
Breakfast at every riad and hotel we stayed in was included, and it was always some version of flatbread, pancakes, and cake. Fine, not exciting. The coffee, however, is excellent. Get a café au lait every single morning and it makes everything better.
12. Marrakech will overwhelm you for exactly one hour — then you'll love it
The medina is loud, fast, chaotic, and full of motorbikes appearing from impossible directions. You will, at some point in the first hour, feel like you've made a terrible mistake. Give it that hour. Don't retreat. The chaos has a rhythm and once you find it, the city becomes completely wonderful. Lean into getting lost — that's when you find the best things.
13. You don't need more than two days in Marrakech
Controversial opinion: four days in Marrakech (as we did, split across the beginning and end of the trip) is one or two days too many. The city is worth seeing properly, but once you've done the medina, the souks, and a rooftop bar or two, you've got the essence of it. Use the extra days for Essaouira, a longer desert stay, or a slower pace somewhere scenic.
14. Essaouira is genuinely windy — pack accordingly
Not "breezy." Not "a light sea wind." Wind. Essaouira sits on the Atlantic coast and earns its nickname as the wind city of Africa every single day. Your hair will be everywhere. Sand will appear from directions that don't make physical sense. Pack a hair tie, accept the chaos, and lean into the fact that it makes the whole place feel beautifully dramatic.
15. Morocco is safe — but go with your gut
We felt safe the entire trip. Nobody tried to steal from us. The people are warm, curious, and hospitable in a way that doesn't feel performative. That said, scams do exist — mostly in the form of "helpful" strangers who offer to show you somewhere and then expect payment, or pushy sales situations like the one we had with the scarves. Nothing dangerous, just requires a bit of confidence and the ability to say no and keep walking.
As a young couple, we always felt comfortable. I'll be honest though — I'm not sure I'd feel as relaxed on a solo girls' trip. The medina can be genuinely overwhelming, the alleys are maze-like and sometimes feel a bit remote, and it was reassuring to navigate it together. That's not a reason not to go — plenty of women travel Morocco solo and have brilliant trips. Just go in aware, trust your instincts, and stick to busier areas after dark.
The short version
Morocco is incredible. Go. The itinerary we did — Marrakech, Sahara tour, Essaouira, back to Marrakech — gives you a genuine range of experiences without feeling rushed. Book accommodation early if you're going at Easter or summer, sort your airport transfer in advance, buy your desert scarf before the tour, and pack four layers for the Sahara no matter what anyone tells you. The dunes at sunset will make every long car journey worth it.
Read the full 10-day Morocco itinerary for the complete day-by-day breakdown, or the Sahara desert tour guide for the full desert deep dive.